Livigno, a ski resort close to the Italian-Swiss border, is situated in a narrow valley at 1800 m above sea level, while its lifts climb to 2800 m. At first glance Livigno reminds of the Austrian Obertauern, but with greater tradition and longer history.
With a total of 115 km ski slopes, the Livigno ski resort can be divided into two major areas, set on different sides of the valley. Areas are connected only by ski buses, and by ski lifts. Areas are very much different from one another, starting from different types of ski lifts, slope configuration and marking that is much better on east side under the peak of Mottolino. The west side, under the peak of Carosello 3000, has somewhat easier slopes with mostly red runs. Blue slopes are located mainly on the foothills and serve mostly as a link between "serious" runs. Mottolino is, on the other hand, characterized by slightly steeper hills with more black runs, especially concentrated in the southeastern part. There are just a few blue slopes here, mostly on the northeastern side.
Slopes are, generally speaking, rather long and wide and therefore not crowded. Most of them are red with interesting configuration and even beginners will enjoy them. Black runs are steep, but also doable. Slope preparation is a bit harder and icier as you head down the mountain, which makes it not so ideal for snowboarders. There is a great freeride potential in Livigno, knowing that the mountain bowls are mostly forest-free and without dangerous cliffs.
With major precipitations at the end of January and in February, there is no problem with natural snow in Livigno. Almost all the slopes are covered by snow guns. Since only the slopes at the top of the mountain are not covered by artificial snow making systems, it turns out that these are the first places where rocks can damage your skis. Mottolino hosts one of the best and most visited snowparks in Italy.
There is a great range of different types of ski lifts, from modern hooded chairlifts to ancient platter lifts, all together with the total capacity of 47060 people per hour. One thing that can be considered a flaw is that the lift connections are rather poor, so you can't combine the same lifts for going upwards and returning in the same direction. Three bus lines (yellow, blue and red) ride through the village in case you cannot return by the lifts. You van take a bus by 9 p.m., and after that taxis are available.
Skipass Livigno offices in the valley sell handsfree skipasses. Refundable deposit of EUR 5 is required. Several options are available, from skipass just for Livigno or for entire Alta Valtellina valley (including the well known Bormio). There are regular ski bus lines in the valley so you can explore nearby ski resorts. But beware, the buses are often late. You should definitely spend a day in St. Moritz, a 66 km distant resort across the Italian-Swiss border. With multi-day Livigno skipass, St.Moritz one day skipass can be bought for half the price.
As for the dining scene, there is a great number of restaurants in the village with relatively high prices, so pizza costs about EUR 7-10, and some a la carte meal EUR 11-20. If you opt for preparing your own meal in the apartment, you'll find no supermarkets, just family-owned groceries. There are about 10 huts on the slopes where you can grab something to eat. Not a great gastronomic offer, but enough to keep you last till the evening. Some huts are not even marked on ski plans so don't be surprised to discover them as you ski. Apart from alpine skiing you can also skate, do the cross-country skiing, ski off-piste with a guide, cycle through the snow or drive go-kart on the frozen lake. Après ski life is rich, with bars and pubs working until 2 a.m. There is just one disco in the village, with somewhat specific offer. Although you can enjoy different aspects of nightlife, it seems that the French ski resorts are doing a better job in offering entertainment.
Livigno is a duty free zone. Buying spirits, chocolate, cigarettes and even gasoline is very popular and attracts many tourists. Information about sales and weather conditions are broadcasted 24 hours a day on a special TV channel. Regarding the organization of the village, it has to ne pointed out that rare tourist officials speak any other language apart from Italian, general information is often incomplete or inaccurate, opening hours are very flexible... There is a sufficient number of free parking places along the road and beside the ski lifts.
Most of the traffic to Livigno in winter is handled through "Munt La Schera" tunnel, between Italy and Switzerland. Train can be taken from Milano to Tirano and then buses are available to Bormio and Livigno. Closest airports are in Bolzano (140 km), Milano (220 km) and Innsbruck (180 km).
The overall impression is that this ski resort, although not at the high organizational level as some of the Austrian ski resorts, will make a pleasant destination for snow week. Village spirit and incredible charm of the friendly people will help you feel at home. The Livigno resort is a nice place where you can spend time not just skiing.
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