Near Zell am See, there is Skicircus, a resort comprising three villages - Saalbach, Hinterglemm and Leogang, which was only recently linked to the previous two by a ski lift system.
The number of ski lifts and total trail length at this resort will come as a pleasant surprise for skiers who like large and versatile resorts. The whole complex thus includes 250 km of ski trails, 94 of them in total, connected by 64 ski lifts. The resort itself is not situated too high - 1003 - 2100m above sea level, which results in rather soft snow at its bottom during spring days. The trails are mostly red, but not too demanding. There is enough trails for beginners, although this resort is primarily intended for somewhat more experienced skiers. For them, there are 6 black trails and a couple of red ones, where the FIS WC races were staged.
The thing that differs Saalbach from other resorts are extremely long ski trails. Almost all of them have 2, 3, or more km, and two are classified to be over 7 km long (the truth is a bit shorter; 4 and 6 km, author's remark). Also, possibilities for freeride are very good here; upper parts of the resort are large areas without trees and ski lifts.
There is no reason to complain about ski lifts; all are fast and modern, and each year some older ski lifts are replaced by new ones. This year, for example, the resort got heated chairlifts, and next year, they are to install one more new gondola. Speaking of gondolas, the only drawback is that standing gondolas are prevailing on the resort, so don't expect that you'll have some rest on a ski lift.
For example, after you have descended down the longest ski trail, standing gondola awaits you at the foot of the slope. Your chance for deserved rest are numerous "sun bathing places" on the trails (photo on the left). Restaurants here are many; there are even three to four of them on some trails, all in Austrian style - likable wooden facilities with large terraces, music and easy chairs (free of charge). The prices are also "Austrian" and similar to other resorts' prices; most dishes are affordable at EUR 2 to 5. For example, you can have fried sausages with mustard at EUR 2.5.
The thing that skiers should have in mind is that they should pay special attention on planning their routes, since some trails (for example the longest one, 7.5 km) end in the middle of nowhere, that is, the foot of the slope is not connected by a ski lift. Thus you may end up crossing a road with skis on your back, or taking a few hundred meters stroll through a village so as to reach the nearest ski lift. Waymarks are many (photo on the right) and all t5he trails are marked by numbers.
Saalbach village is a bit larger than Hinterglemm and is situated 3 km below it. In its centre, there are lots of cafes, whose terraces are on sunny days crowded with locals and guests alike. Stores in Saalbach are not numerous, and besides, they are rather expensive. However, restaurants and bars are many, and with affordable prices. There are also parking garages that are free of charge during ski lifts operating hours. Unlike Saalbach, Hinterglemm is a much calmer place, consisting only hotels and pensions, and a couple of restaurants. The place offers rich and vivid nightlife and one thing is certain - you won't get bored here. Every Sunday, there is a welcoming party for newly arrived guests, and later, you can enjoy boiled vine and live music of international taste.
Apart from night skiing, you may wish to try night sledging. There are illuminated sledging trails, and after descending them, you can take a gondola to reach the peak (above photo: one of Hinterglamm's sledging trails. You can rent a sledge at EUR5, with EUR20 deposit. At the top of the gondola there are candles in the snow, a large outside bar near an open fire and a romantic panoramic view over illuminated villages in the valley. But beware – sledging is not so harmless as it seems; the trails are steep, speeds are high, and there are no protective fences or brakes....in any case, you have to be careful, since accidents and injuries are here more frequent than on skis.
Since the villages are situated in a ravine, and apartment houses are situated mostly on the trails, they are sometimes hard to reach. Be prepared that you will have to use tire chains; streets are steep and snowy. If you take a bus, your luggage will be transported to your house by a tractor, and you'll have to walk up the hill. If you are 'carless', your problem could also be the stores' operating hours (up to 6 p.m. only) and public bus transportation (9 a.m. - 5 p.m.). However, you can always take a taxi (unless you enjoy 45 mins' night tour to your apartment), for a cost of EUR15 per person (usually, it can take up to 8 passengers).
Last but not least Saalbach ranks as one of more expensive Austrian resorts. One day ski pass costs EUR36 in high season, and if you wish to ski there for 7 days, you have to pay EUR 36.
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